Havanese Girl Puppy #3

Nine days old!

Pups are gaining by leaps and bounds! Their noses are beginning to blacken and they are pretty mobile though they don't quite get up on their wobbly legs yet. Here are some photos. No names yet and some are not the greatest pix but I'll bring out my good camera for the next ones. I'm giving you their coloring and weights as well though it has little bearing on their final size, I've learned.

Puppy #1 is a female. Weighs 11 3/4 ounces. She has a small black spot on her side that you can see better in the group photo below.

Puppy #2 is a black and white male. Weighs 10 1/4 ounces

Puppy #3 is a black and white female. Weighs 11.5 ounces.

Puppy #4 is a male Irish Pied. He weighs 11 ounces.

Puppy #5 is a tan and white female. She's 7.5 ounces but strong as ever!

Puppy #6 is a female with sable and white coloring. She weighs 10 5/8 ounces.

Puppy #7 is a male, black and white. He weighs 10 ounces

Puppy #8 is a female with sable/white coloring. She weighs 8 7/8 ounces.

Yes, they are all in here, nursing to their heart's content. You can see the spot here on the middle one, Puppy #1.

Volhard Puppy Personality Profile

Okay, This is a long post but some of you may be interested in what goes into evaluating the personalities of each puppy. What follows is a modification of the Volhard Puppy Personality Profile. I have just posted my evaluations of each of Maxi's puppies based on their test results which were performed by me and my friend Lori who is a longtime dog walker and sitter. The pups don't know her which makes the test a bit more authentic.

The profiles are posted on my website at http://www.carneyshaven.com. Go to the "Puppy Blog" section and click on your favorite puppy for details. I hope to add photos to each puppy's page in the next couple weeks.

A couple things to remember. This test is for all breeds including such German shepherds, Basenjis and other typically protective/ agressive breeds. Several of the criteria, then, have little to do with our sweet, friendly and happy-happy Havanese! Also, no dog falls crisply into any single category. Like people, they have a variation of the theme which makes them unique. Finally, this is an extremely interpretive and subjective test. If you have any questions about the results for a particular puppy please don't hesitate to drop me a note.

Again I fully intended to take pictures of some of these tests but guess what? No pix! Maybe next time I'll be more together. We'll be testing Phoebe's litter in about ten days.

Volhard Puppy Profile

Performed on the 45th Day of Age
by Jacqueline Carney, Carneys Havanese Haven

Puppy ________________________________________________  Sex: ________

Litter: ____________________________________________________   Date: ____________

PART I: PUPPY APTITUDE TEST

Test #1…SOCIAL ATTRACTION:
Purpose: To determine degree of social attraction, confidence or dependence.

Procedure: Place puppy in test area. From a few feet away the tester coaxes the pup to her/him by clapping hands

gently and kneeling down. Tester must coax in a direction away from the point

where it entered the testing area.

If the puppy...                                                 It's score is:       

                                                                   

-Came readily, tail up, jumped, bit at hands.        1 point

-Came readily, tail up, pawed, licked at hands.    2 points

-Came readily, tail up.                                           3 points

-Came readily, tail down                                       4 points

-Came hesitantly, tail down.                                 5 points

-Didn’t come at all.                                               6 points

Test #2…FOLLOWING:
Purpose: Degree of following attraction. Not following indicates independence.

Procedure: Stand up and walk away from the pup in a normal manner. Make sure the pup sees you walk away.

Score:

-Followed readily, tail up, got underfoot, bit at feet. 1

-Followed readily, tail up, got underfoot.                  2

-Followed readily, tail up                                          3

-Followed readily, tail down.                                    4

-Followed hesitantly, tail down.                                5

-No follow or went away.                                          6

Test #3…RESTRAINT:
Purpose: To determine degree of dominant or submissive tendency.

How it accepts stress when socially/ physically dominated.

Procedure: Crouch down and gently roll the pup on his back and hold it with one hand for a full 30 seconds.

Score:

-Struggled fiercely, flailed, bit.                                 1

-Struggled fiercely, flailed.                                       2

-Settled, struggled, settled with some eye contact. 3

-Struggled then settled.                                           4

-No struggle.                                                            5

-No struggle, straining to avoid eye contact.           6

Test #4…SOCIAL DOMINANCE:
Purpose: To determine degree of acceptance of social dominance. Pup may try to dominate by

jumping and nipping or is independent and walks away.

Procedure: Let pup standup and gently stroke him from the head to back while
you crouch beside him. Continue stroking until a recognizable behavior is established.

Score:

-Jumped, pawed, bit, growled.                                     1

-Jumped, pawed.                                                          2

-Cuddles up to tester and tries to lick face.                  3

-Squirmed, licked at hands.                                          4

-Rolled over, licked at hands.                                       5

-Went away and stayed away.                                     6

Test #5…ELEVATION DOMINANCE:
Purpose: To determine degree of accepting dominance while in position of no control.

Procedure: Bend over and cradle the pup under its belly, fingers interlaced, palms up and elevate it just off the ground. Hold it there for 30 seconds.

Score:

-Struggled fiercely, bit, growled.                  1

-Struggled fiercely.                                       2

-No struggle, relaxed                                   3

-Struggled, settled, licked                            4

-No struggle, licked at hands.                      5

-No struggle, froze.                                      6

PART II: OBEDIENCE APTITUDE TESTS

Test #6…RETRIEVING:
Purpose: To determine degree of willingness to work with a human.

High correlation between ability to retrieve and successful guide dogs, obedience dogs, field trial dogs.

Procedure: Crouch beside pup and attract his attention with crumpled up paper ball. When the pup shows interest and is watching, toss the object 4-6 feet in front of pup.

Score:

-Chases object, picks up object and runs away.                         1

-Chases object, stands over object, does not return                   2

-Chases object and returns with object to tester.                        3

-Chases object and returns without object to tester.                   4

-Starts to chase object, loses interest.                                        5

-Does not chase object.                                                              6

Test #7…TOUCH SENSITIVITY:
Purpose: To determine degree of sensitivity to touch.

Procedure: Take puppy’s webbing of one front foot and press between

*finger and thumb lightly then more firmly till you get a response, while you count slowly to 10. Stop as soon as puppy pulls away, or shows discomfort.*Do NOT use fingernail. Important note from Wendy Volhard regarding the Touch Sensitivity test - Do not use your fingernail when performing this test. Press between the finger and thumb lightly then more firmly until you get response.

Score:

-8-10 counts before response.                   1

-6-7 counts before response.                     2

-5-6 counts before response.                     3

-2-4 counts before response.                     4

-1-2 counts before response.                     5

Test #8…SOUND SENSITIVITY:
Procedure: Place pup in the center of area, tester or assistant makes a sharp

noise a few feet from the puppy. A large metal spoon struck sharply on a metal pan twice works well.

Purpose: To determine degree of sensitivity to sound. (Also can be a rudimentary test for deafness.)

Score:

-Listens, locates sound, walks toward it barking      1

Listens, locates sound, barks                                   2

Listens, locates sound, shows curiosity and walks toward it. 3

Listens, locates sound                                              4

Cringes, backs off , hides                                         5

Ignores sound, shows no curiosity                           6

                 

Test #9…SIGHT SENSITIVITY:

Procedure: Place pup in center of room. Tie a string around a large towel and jerk it across the floor a few feet away from puppy.

Purpose: To determine degree of intelligent response to strange object.

Score:

-Looks, attacks and bites        1

-Looks, attacks and barks       2

-Looks curiously, attempts to investigate. 3

-Looks, barks, tail tucked        4

-Runs away, hides                  5

Interpreting the Scores

• Mostly 1’s A puppy that consistently scores a 1 in the temperament section of the test is an extremely dominant, aggressive puppy who can easily be provoked to bite. His dominant nature will attempt to resist human leadership, thus requiring only the most experienced of handlers. This puppy is a poor choice for most individuals and will do best in a working situation as a guard or police dog.
• Mostly 2’s This pup is dominant and self-assured. He can be provoked to bite; however he readily accepts human leadership that is firm, consistent and knowledgeable. This is not a dog for a tentative, indecisive individual. In the right hands, he has the potential to become a fine working or show dog and could fit into an adult household, provided the owners know what they are doing.
• Mostly 3’s This pup is outgoing and friendly and will adjust well in situations in which he receives regular training and exercise. He has a flexible temperament that adapts well to different types of environment, provided he is handled correctly. May be too much dog for a family with small children or an elderly couple who are sedentary.
• Mostly 4’s A pup that scores a majority of 4’s is an easily controlled, adaptable puppy whose submissive nature will make him continually look to his master for leadership. This pup is easy to train, reliable with kids, and, though he lacks self-confidence, makes a high-quality family pet. He is usually less outgoing than a pup scoring in the 3’s, but his demeanor is gentle and affectionate.
• Mostly 5’s This is a pup who is extremely submissive and lacking in self-confidence. He bonds very closely with his owner and requires regular companionship and encouragement to bring him out of himself. If handled incorrectly, this pup will grow up very shy and fearful. For this reason, he will do best in a predictable, structured lifestyle with owners who are patient and not overly demanding, such as an elderly couple.
• Mostly 6’s A puppy that scores 6 consistently is independent and uninterested in people. He will mature into a dog who is not demonstrably affectionate and who has a low need for human companionship. In general, it is rare to see properly socialized pups test this way; however there are several breeds that have been bred for specific tasks (such as basenjis, hounds, and some northern breeds) which can exhibit this level of independence. To perform as intended, these dogs require a singularity of purpose that is not compromised by strong attachments to their owner.

Developed by Joachim and Wendy Volhard and reprinted here with permission of Wendy Volhard. © 1996 Wendy Volhard.

Happy Meal

Sparky LOVED the mush

I started Maxi's pups on mush yesterday. Puppy kibble soaked in water, then mushed up and mixed with goat's milk for a very creamy consistency...more milk right now than mush...warmed up to about 95 degrees F. Yummy!

Actually, so did Blaze

It is interesting to observe the logistics in all this. Of course the puppies have no clue what this bowl set in their midst might contain. I am sure they can detect the milk but it is not their mother's milk nor is it our vet's formula that some have been fed. With a gentle nudge of muzzles to mush they slowly get it. Why? Because it tastes good.

Still there are problems as there are with any new experience. They have to learn to keep their noses clear of the substance or they sneeze. They have to learn to balance themselves or their front end drops into the dish of mush. They have to learn to lap at the food instead of sucking it. And they have to learn to keep their feet clear of the mushy stuff because it feels funny. At least it did to some of them. A couple had no problem diving right in and remaining there.

It took Boomer a few minutes to get the program

And Georgie just wanted to play

Today Maxi's pups got their second nail trim. This time I did front and back toes for a total of 64. It took a while. I also spent a few moments gently laying each puppy on my lap...on its back. This is a very strange sensation and one of complete submission which some pups (and adult dogs) have difficulty with. This exercise teaches them trust. It also teaches them to better handle stress.

In time they will have other exercises as well. The U.S. Military was actually instrumental in developing these "Early Neurological Stimulation" exercises to improve the dogs' performance for military purposes. Of course, some puppies can handle this stress better than others and it is important to appreciate the difference so as to not "freak out" the puppy. With tiny, gentle stimulations they will become better adjusted pets...each at its own pace.

But ten minutes in...they were all interested and chowing down

Then there was the ceremonial cleansing of feet

And, here is Phoebe with her babies...all growing nicely

I'll talk about the four other kinds of stimulation later.

Equipment for Your Havanese Puppy

Phoebe's puppies at 12 days

Equipment for Your Havanese Puppy

The first few days with a puppy are very special ones. Make sure the course is as smooth as possible. Here are a few things you may want to have on hand.

1. Carrier (to bring your puppy home)

                  If you plan to travel on an airplane with your Havanese it is wise to purchase a sturdy carrier that is airline approved and will fit under the seat of your airplane. Get a size that will be large enough for your puppy when he is full grown. Plan to spend about $30-50.

2. Harness and leash

                  Because a Havanese puppy is so small, I don’t recommend collars. The size harness you will want will be extra small (up to 4 pound pup) or small (4-8 pound pup).

3.  Crate.

                  I recommend the open wire crates with a removable floor (for cleaning) and a divider that will create a smaller space for sleeping until the pup is completely housebroken. A crate appropriate for a 15 pound dog is more than sufficient. Any larger gives the pup too much space inside.

4. Exercise Pen (X-pen)

                  The 8 panel, 30” tall, pen is fine. Some come with gates, some do not. Plan to spend about $40.

5. Food bowls.

                  Ceramic or stainless steel are best. Puppies will chew plastic ones. Smaller is good (5” max) as the older pup’s ears will likely land outside the bowl (and the food).

6. Food

                  Your puppy has been eating Organix Puppy Food (Whole Foods) and Wellness Super Mix Just for Puppy (most pet stores). They are used to three meals a day…about ¼ cup per meal.

7. Toys

                  Puppies love toys! Lots of toys keep their interest away from furniture, cords and shoes! Tough rubber toys for teething are good, especially the small “Kong” toys you can stuff with yogurt and freeze. Squeaky toys are good too. Just don’t spend a lot on these squeaky toys as they pup will likely dismember it in a few weeks!

I can't believe Maxi's pups are 3 weeks old!

8. Piddle Pads

                  Your puppy is trained to use a piddle pad. I use the pale blue, plastic backed ones with 4 layers of newspaper on top. This seems to reduce the shredding motivation. As the pup matures you can eliminate the newspaper.

9. Piddle Pad Frame

                  You will also need the plastic piddle pad frame to hold the pads in place. I was lucky enough to find the adhesive backed pads at one point, which eliminated the need for the frame. I have not 
been able to find them lately though.If you plan to keep your 
piddle pad as a permanent place for pottying you can buy 
them online a lot cheaper…100 for $50.

10. Nail Clippers and Brush

                  Your puppy is used to having his nails trimmed. I do this to reduce their angst down the road. You can use a human nail clipper for now…the kind that clip from the side are good. Later you will need a regular dog nail trimmer. The mini slicker brush work best for general grooming. Again, he is used to this and it is a good idea to continue to brush him 2-3 times a week just for a few minutes.

A big yawn

11. 5-6” long Nylabones. Do not use rawhide chews for puppies and always supervise your puppy when he is chewing any kind of bones.

12. Natures Miracle spray. There are all kinds of sizes as well as special formulas for hardwood floors, laundry, etc. The best produce I’ve found for removing odors and stains.

13. Bathing supplies should include shampoo, conditioner and detangler. For the first two, I actually use Tresemee’ brand that you can find in most grocery and drug stores. For the detangler I use Christensen’s Ice on Ice Detangler which can be purchased online.